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Take one of the popular walking tours of the city's landmarks ordiscover the magical world of butterflies in theButterfly Wonderland, a live exhibit located in the tropical jungle in the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community.

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You are reading "30 Best Southwest Vacations " Back to Top. There is so much to see in Salt Lake City , you might want to take a shortcut byhopping on the city's popular Salt Lake Trolley,which will take you through the most popular attractions.

To continue your exploration, check out the beautiful Temple Square with the magnificent Mormon temple and the dome-shaped auditorium that hosts Salt Lake City's renowned Tabernacle Choir.

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Take a walk through theacre Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum with more than animals and 1, plants species that thrive in a completely natural setting.

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Albuquerque ABQ offers flights both domestically and internationally. I have a sqft ranch, when the roof was redone aprox. Is it possible that too much ventilation could be causing incresed energy use, and causing erradic temperture fluctations.

Oh I might add that on windy days it is impossible to keep any heat. The house always feels cold even when it is warm outside.

Also in response to an earilier post about vents above windows and doors, I was told that this should not be done, because in the unlikely event that a fire should occur the air currents would draw the flames into the attic causing more damage.

Hi Randy, Good point about fire and attic vents, thanks. Plus, you do live in Michigan where it gets pretty darn cold in the winter!

Thanks for your reply Ben. I should have stated that the attic has an origianal r13 layer then I added a r30 layer a few years ago. We do have a whole house attic fan that gets covered in the winter time.

It seems the more I try to be efficient the higher the bills go. The problem with blocking the vents in your attic during the winter is that it might cause moisture to build up in the attic which could lead to mold and rot.

Randy, I want to install attic baffles before blowing in insulation. The area I need to install baffles the roof trusses and joists are at almost a 30 angle from each other below this area is cathedral ceiling.

Is there any way to remove the soffit outside and somehow slide the baffles in from there? Is there something else that could be done?

Thanks, Craig. I am going to add blown-in insulation in my attic. I know I need to install soffit baffles in order to avoid the insulation from blocking the soffit vent.

The challenge is my attic is very low and installation of the baffles is almost impossible. Any suggestion?

I currenlty have a powered attic fan near the peak and gabled louvers though not directly accross from each other..

I need to replace some rotten soffits. I currently have no soffit vents or roof vents. As I replace the soffits, should I hadd vents..

Hi Jamie, I would add soffit vents if possible. The vent fan and natural air currents will draw cool air in from them to lower the temperature in your attic.

Good luck with your project! My house has ridge vents at three different levels as the roof profile creates three different ridges. I am assuming if it can be split between the three levels, you would do three separate calculations, one for each amount of square footage the ridge covers.

Is this correct? I live in Colorado arid environment in a small house and have a small attic approx. I do not have any soffit vents or an eave for that matter and just two vents on the side of the house near the top of the attic.

I have blown in cellulouse insulation on the floor of the attic. Should I add small vents above the new windows that can effectively vent the area behind the knee walls that would be connected to the small area above the ridge?

Or should I just create my room in the middle that includes all space up to the ridge , effectively separating the attic into three parts — area behind the kneewall on one side, conditioned area, area behind the other kneewall — then just add four vents two on either side of the house at each kneewall?

I could by way off base with what is even possible here. Any insight is appreciated I also realize this fairly in-depth, so if anyone had a suggestion on a good book on the subject that would be great too.

Hi Tim, Your problem comes up a lot when converting an attic to a room with a vaulted ceiling, since filling the space between the rafters with insulation effectively eliminates much of the ventilation.

Rather than bringing your ceiling to a peak, I would suggest flattening the top to leave room for insulation, wiring, ducts, and venting.

In fact if you have all three, flow of air through the attic will not be adequate. Is there any truth to this?

I have all three vent types and currently have a mold problem in my attic that I am remediating and am wondering if I should block off the gable vents and just go with the soffit and ridge vents.

Any ideas? Hi Matt, The idea is to create a balanced, natural flow of air through the attic due to cool air coming in through the soffit vents, rising as it heats up, and then exiting out the ridge or gable vents at the top.

Where you can run into trouble is combining ridge vents with a power vent fan, which can reverse the flow of air through the attic, by drawing in air and rain at the top through the ridge vent.

Hi, I had aluminum placed over my soffit for appearance, but mostly for additional venting. Granted the aluminum is not pressed up tight to the soffit so air should be able to enter through the other holes, but not sure.

Hi Tim, Since most perforated aluminum soffit is set below the existing wood soffit with an air gap between the two, you should figure up the area free air space of all the aluminum soffit for each area of the house, then figure up the area of the holes drilled in that same eave and use the lesser of the two for your vent calculation.

Thanks for the response. Based on the calculation above, I need sq inches. Even if I cut the entire soffit and install the vented aluminum I would only be getting sq inches.

Any suggestions? I guess that explains why that room is so hot. You could make all the eaves perforated and drill more holes. If it makes you feel better, I have a similar situation at my house.

The previous owners put up vinyl soffit with a perforated piece every few feet, then blew insulation in the attic which appears to have filtered out over the eaves and probably blocked up any vents in the old wood soffit.

Our attic is about square feet. The only vents now are small 1 inch round louvres. Should I replace each of them?

I counted 20 total. Is this even enough vents? Or both? How many would I need? I have been reading the horror stories about icles and mold in the attic.

It just the blowm in insulation between the joists on top of the dry wall. It there is a lot of moisture, try lowering the humidity level in your house using the tips found in our article on How to Cure Sweating Windows.

If you still have a problem with condensation, consider priming your ceilings with a paint that acts as a vapor barrier, such as an oil-based primer, and topcoat over it with a standard latex ceiling paint.

I just had this argument with my roofing contractor who has the family busines for 60 years installing roofing. I am in the north east in Ontario, The house is dual brick contruction built about 60 years ago.

There bricks go right to the top of the underside of the roof. At lease one quote I received and the most epensive the he said lower vents on the roof would help to try and get airflow from the soffit would be costly, though others say that rain and snow could get in, some suggest knocking out some the bricks to allow air in through the soffits.

Never seen any icicles in the attic or outside with my old room, surpisingly. I would put two or three on each side of your roof.

The reason to point the vents toward the house on soffit vents is so that you can not see in and they are less noticable.

Just like when you install wall return vents for your forced air Heating system. It only slopes up the rafters for about 2 ft, to add about 1ft of height to the ceiling.

If i removed this insulation, that would be 2ft all the way across the living room, master bed, and office that would remain uninsulated.

I was on the roof the other day and decided to take a closer look at my ridge vent. I noticed that on the shorter ends perpendicular to the vent run that some ends had a foam piece in them, some had some folded shingles in them and others had nothing.

Should all of the ends have something in them, maybe to keep rain out? Or should they all be open to allow better airflow? I also have a powered exhaust vent that turns on when the temp in the attic becomes hot.

Some questions: a. If I add a ridge vent should I remove the power vent? I plan on adding some soffit vents so the Sq footage of the soffit venting matches the ridge venting.

The soffit vents I plan on using are metal with finned intake set at an angle. Should the soffit vent have the slotted angles point towards the house, or away from the house.

It appears there may be a correct or incorrect method. Hi Mark, The answer to your question about the power vent fan can be found on our website in our article on Combining an Attic Vent Fan with a Roof Ridge Vent.

I have a ranch style house with a hip roof on one section and am going to have the whole roof replaced. A ridge vent will be added to the main peak, however I would also like to add a ridge vent to the hip portion of the roof since that section is quite a bit lower than the rest of the roof, with no ventilation.

I have heard that this may not be a good idea because water running down the main section of the roof may get under the ridge vent where the two meet.

Any comment? IS THERE ANY MORE WE CAN DO? I have just finished the attic July of my 85 year old house into a usable living space.

Its rather hot in the summer, NJ area. I am in the process of insalling soffit vents, but I am quite afraid that there will not be proper air flow because I do not have a ridge to incorporate a ridge vent.

There are also two dormers on opposite ends of the south and north. What do I do? The contractor do not seem to have an answer that makes me comfortable for how the air will be circulated.

He says that the air will move up from the soffit through the baffles and back down to the soffit. Please let me know if this strategy is reliable, because it makes me nervous since every article I read on venting an attic properly says that the air needs to exit at the top of the roof.

Should I consider installing some type of vent maybe two on each side of the east and west side of the roof that will draw air through one of the soffits?

I think that maybe I need 3 or 4 vents on each of the four sides of the house. I try to calculate based on your instructions and came up with 3 vents— but is that total of 3 vents total around the house, or 3 vents on each side of the house?

Plus I may need to place 2 vents on each of the dormers. Can you help me please. Your quick response will be greatly appreciated.

Is this strategy good, or is it better to cut out the soffit in a rectangle slightly smaller thanthe vent.

Hi Jacinta, For proper natural air flow in and out of your attic to remove heat, you need to not only have soffit vents for the air to enter, but vents at or near the peak of your attic for the hot air to exit.

Soffit vents alone are not enough to provide proper attic ventilation. That means you should have at least 2. The vents should be completely open to the attic, so you should cut out the entire vent opening rather than drilling a few holes.

Does it matter if I spread them out evenly or not? I just gutted out an upstairs room in my Cape style house. I could not drill though the wood from inside.

Should I remove the siding to install the vents into the wood, or do they make vents with a sleeve that will not allow bugs and debri? Discover the heroism and service of 31 inductees honored in the State Memorial to the th Anniversary of the Texas Rangers.

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